How should you lay antique floor tiles?

What you need to know before laying antique floor tiles

Unlike modern tiles, thickness variation in old materials is not a manufacturing error but an authentic characteristic. A batch of antique floor tiles can include differences of two to three centimeters. This is because they were made by hand and come from different parts of historic buildings. It makes every piece unique, but it also means you cannot rely on standard tile adhesive from a DIY store.

For antique tiles with substantial thickness differences, you work under a line. You stretch a guide line at the finished floor height and lay each tile so the top touches the underside of the line. For this, use trass cement, a traditional material that fills very well. If the thickness differences are smaller, a tile mortar such as Strasser Egalfix Plus is a good option. This product is also useful when you have little build-up height. Tiles with hardly any thickness variation can sometimes be laid in tile adhesive, although this is rare with genuinely old materials.

The working height differs by method: with cement and sand, allow about five centimeters, including the tile thickness and cement layer; with tile mortar or adhesive, allow roughly two to three centimeters. With underfloor heating, also account for the extra height of the pipes above the structural floor.

Supplies for laying an old floor

Besides the tiles themselves, you need the following for the bedding layer:

• trass cement for strong thickness variation
• tile mortar for moderate thickness variation
• tile adhesive in some cases.

For porous materials such as Burgundy slabs or old plavuizen, choose white cement or white adhesive because it helps prevent staining, depending on the tile color. Grey cement can migrate through the tile and leave dark marks on the surface.

To determine the line, you need:

• Guide lines and strong nails to set the laying direction
• A long straightedge to check whether the tiles run level
• A tile cutter, tile saw, and nippers for cutting around pipes or door frames
• A tile file to smooth the edges.

For grouting, you need:

• Sand: silver sand for a fine joint, jointing sand or masonry sand for a coarser joint

• You determine the joint color through the ratio of sand to grey or white cement. Set a test joint first to see whether you like the color.

   

• You also need a rubber float, a large sponge for cleaning, and plenty of clean water. Cement residue must not settle into the structure of the tiles.

What to consider when laying an old floor

 

The substrate must be flat, as with any tiling. What antique tiles specifically require is a slowly drying joint. Antique materials such as old estrikken and old plavuizen draw a lot of moisture from the cement. If the joint dries too quickly, it will not harden properly. That is why you wet the tiles well before washing in the grout. Work in sections of about five square meters: grout first, then sponge clean immediately. The slower the joint dries, the stronger it becomes.

Tiles with color variation must be mixed well in advance. Take boxes from different pallets and make your own selection while laying. This creates an even spread of colors and patterns across the floor. This is especially important with old plavuizen, where the variation in color is part of the charm.

For coarse tiles, the joint width is about one centimeter.

Pay attention to the laying direction. Set the guide lines square to the door so the sight line feels straight. Especially with old floors made from handmade tiles, deviations are more noticeable than with perfectly produced modern tiles. Check regularly whether the tiles line up opposite each other and look straight. As long as the bedding layer has not hardened, you can still adjust.

Step-by-step plan for laying estrikken or old plavuizen yourself

Step 1: Start by calculating the number of tiles.

Step 2: Measure the surface and account for joint width. Make sure cut pieces on opposite sides are the same size so the floor looks visually balanced.

Step 3: Buy slightly too much rather than too little. Antique batches are unique, and buying more later in the same shade is rarely possible.

Step 4: Check whether leveling is needed. A flat substrate is essential. Small uneven areas can be compensated later with mortar or trass cement, but larger deviations in the rough floor must be fully leveled first.

Step 5: Sort and mix the antique tiles before you start laying permanently. Take tiles from different crates or pallets and lay them out in the work area. This creates a natural and even spread of color nuances across the whole floor.

Step 6: Stretch the guide lines accurately at the desired finished height. Always set the lines square to the main doorway or primary sight line in the room. This makes the floor appear perfectly straight, which is especially important with handmade tiles.

Step 7: Prepare the bedding layer based on the thickness of your batch. Use a traditional trass-cement bed, allowing about 5 cm total working height, or choose a tile mortar if the thickness difference is smaller.

Step 8: Lay the tiles under the line. Start in the corner and work along the stretched line. Tap each tile carefully into the mortar with a rubber mallet until the top exactly touches the underside of the guide line. Use a long straightedge to keep checking that the tiles run level. Maintain a robust joint width of about one centimeter.

Step 9: Cut the edge pieces to size for walls, door frames, and any pipes.

Step 10: Thoroughly wet the laid floor before grouting.

Step 11: When grouting, work in clear sections of no more than five square meters. Apply the grout, your chosen mix of sand and cement, with a rubber float and press it firmly into the gaps so the joint is completely filled.

Step 12: Sponge the floor clean immediately after grouting with a large sponge and plenty of clean water.